Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Three People With a Vision, Twenty-Five Teen Tutors, and Fifteen Children: The Recipe for a Successful Tutoring Project in Jordan, Hong Kong


This is a story of how three individuals, each with an expansive heart and an even broader vision, came together to do something good for fifteen small children with the help of twenty-five teenagers. The principle actors in this drama are Alan Lo, a high school science and math teacher, an ethnic Chinese born in the jungles of Malaysia to a Chinese family escaping the Cultural Revolution, raised and educated in Australia; Martin Radford, a theologian and teacher, a theater director and parent, born in Bristol, England, and called to serve the Nepalese community in Hong Kong as Executive Director of Inner City Ministries; and Caroline Simick, a woman of mixed Indian and Chinese heritage, a Christian missionary, and the glue that holds the Hong Kong Nepalese community together.
To understand the vision and the work of Inner City Ministries, it is necessary to understand Martin Radford. After over a month of trying to catch Martin, I was finally able to sit down to a long conversation with him in March, 2014. On a gray afternoon, on one of those days when one cannot distinguish whether the dense cloud cover hovering over Hong Kong is caused by intense pollution or fog, Martin and I sit facing each other across a long wooden table in the Inner City Ministries conference room. The shelves lining the walls surrounding us are stacked with board games, educational books, films, all the evidence of the tutoring and educational support the center offers. Outside the conference room windows a perpetual gray smog hangs above a roaring six-lane highway. The twilight skyline is blocked by a massive wall of slate gray apartment buildings. Outside the building, in the warren of tight streets that make up the Kowloon neighborhood of Jordan, there are countless noodle shops, Chinese herbal medicine shops, junk shops, and used clothing stalls. I could not imagine surroundings more incongruous with the community’s native Nepal, glimpses of which can be seen in photographs of cozy villages nestled between the snowcapped mountain peaks of the Himalayas decorating the center’s walls.
With four on-going outreach programs for children, three programs for young adults, and three programs for adults, Martin’s work at Inner City Ministries keeps him moving in order to implement the organization’s intended impact: “To engage, enrich, educate, and empower our community members; to equip them to reverse and rise above the marginalization, dysfunction and disempowerment endemic in the South Asian community.”
To reach the organization’s intended impact, at ICM members of the South Asian community are offered a variety of opportunities for self-improvement: a professional cooking class at a commercial kitchen, which provides catering training, work experience, and support; sewing workshops with training on machines and sewing by hand; language classes and parenting classes; pastoral care and social service, including prison visits and assistance at immigration or in hospitals. Youth and young adults are offered dance, drama, and music workshops, as well as counselling and in-depth bible study. Children are offered after-school tutoring with individual homework help in English, Cantonese, and core subjects. They are also offered summer vacation programs and sports outreach in local parks. All of this work is done by Martin and his small staff and by volunteers, who feel that providing these services is not enough; the work must be done from the heart in order for results to take root. In the 2013 Inner City Ministries annual report Martin writes: “…our passion and focus is to see life-long transformation. The impact we make is not measured in the extent of our reach but in the depth of relationship and the lasting impact this has on the lives of those to whom we minister…”
        I asked Martin to explain how the Nepalese community is marginalized and disempowered. Martin explained that most of the Nepalese in Hong Kong are the descendants of the Gurkha warriors who came to Hong Kong to serve in the British military when Hong Kong was a colony of Great Britain. After Great Britain handed Hong Kong over to mainland China in 1997 and pulled out its military, the Gurkha and their families faced a decision. They could either accept British citizenship and relocate to the United Kingdom, return to Nepal, or continue living in Hong Kong with permanent residence status. Most chose to remain in Hong Kong, where they had been living and working for generations. However, they underestimated how quickly Hong Kong would be swallowed up and culturally assimilated into mainland China, leaving the Gurkha and their families without a common language of communication and without jobs and a structured life. Soon after the hand-over China put pressure on Hong Kong to suspend education in the English language, as had been the norm previously, and to make Mandarin and Cantonese the main languages of instruction. With this new focus, English language education quickly deteriorated. The Nepalese people, who relied on English as their language of communication in Hong Kong, were marginalized and disenfranchised.
“Today we see a situation in Hong Kong,” Martin said, “in which Nepalese children learn to speak Nepalese at home, but do not learn to read and write in Nepalese.  They have no literary base for the language. Then they go to school where they are offered instruction in Cantonese and English, but no support to help them integrate as second language speakers. They become confused, learn the two languages only very superficially, and soon fall behind in their other subjects. Very often they cannot differentiate between words in English and in Cantonese. It is not uncommon to have ten-year-olds who cannot read come to our center. These children are severely linguistically challenged and their parents also do not have the linguistic tools to help them.”
           The children currently in school are the third generation growing up since the hand-over. Their parents have had an even more difficult time. Many of the former Gurkha found work after the hand-over as security guards or bouncers in bars, but this work does not pay well, is unstable, and does not offer hours conducive to family life. Nepalese women tend to work in the restaurant business, while the men who do not work in security, work in construction.
           “The type of work the Nepalese do involve hours that wreak habit on the routines of family life,” Martin explains. “The children develop poor sleep habits because their parents’ employment necessitates late nights.  Returning after eleven at night they often wake up the kids because families live crowded together—sometimes two to three families—in one and two room flats. These kids grow up with a poor diet made up mostly of carbohydrates and typical of the urban poor.  This in turn contributes to attention deficit disorder and creates issues in school, which then tailspin into a downward spiral. They also grow up in a tribal culture in which there is no consistent discipline. Every child is everybody’s responsibility. Parents don’t pay attention to their kids because everybody is supposed to be watching them, like in the village. They don’t engage their children in play. They themselves were never played with as children because they grew up in poverty.”
            Martin explains that the Nepalese were not encouraged to integrate into Chinese culture when they served as Gurkha in the British military and now they self-isolate. They experience passive discrimination by the Chinese. Although the Hong Kong government has programs that help new immigrants learn Chinese, the descendants of the Gurkha do not qualify for this help because many of them are third and fourth generation Hong Kongers. They are expected to know Cantonese and yet they have no real way of entering into the language and community.
            “There is no level playing field for the Nepalese in Hong Kong,” Martin says.
            Martin explains how it is one of ICM’s mission goals to help Nepalese children learn individualism through the study of Christianity. “They grow up with a karmic acceptance of life, which is insidious. Many families bring a belief in the caste system with them from Nepal, where the Hindi culture is dominant. The caste system enables poverty and hopelessness. For this reason, I passionately believe in the Christian Church. If you identify in Christ, then you will change your attitude and transformation comes into your life.”
            “How did you come to ICM?” I ask. “What is your life story, Martin?”
“I was born November 14, 1952 in Bristol, England,” Martin begins. “My father was an Anglican minister. I grew up in the Church. I was taught church music and played the organ. I studied Theology and Philosophy in university and intended to go into the priesthood, but instead became an educator of multicultural faith studies in the United Kingdom schools. I was married young, at the age of 22, and had two children, a son and a daughter."
As a young teacher, Martin discovered that teaching was his passion. Through teaching he could express his desire to share something important and at the same time make it fun and accessible to kids. After a school trip to Israel in 1983, Martin and his wife, also a teacher, decided that they wanted to travel and teach. He applied for a position as Head of Religious Studies at South Island School and was hired. Martin and his family made the move to Hong Kong and never looked back. He taught for nineteen years at South Island School and loved every minute of it. Sadly, Martin’s marriage ended in divorce in 1992.
“I was running a school theater company and we were always on tour. I was engaged in many projects at school and did not realize until it was too late the toll this was taking on my marriage. Hong Kong can be tough on families. There is a tendency to get too busy in this city.”
Ten years later, in 2002, Martin went through another upheaval in his life. He felt called to ministry and could no longer ignore that call. He handed in his resignation after nearly two decades at the South Island School.
“I just didn’t want to teach anymore. This part of my life was finished. I felt called to minister to the poor, only I didn’t yet know how. I took a leap of faith.”
Remaking one’s life at fifty is never easy, but for Martin one thing led to another and eventually through volunteering and ministering, Martin found his way to Inner City Ministries.
“I began my work at ICM preaching, helping out with worship and repairing the toilets,” Martin says and laughs, “but in 2006 I was invited onto the Board of Directors. During 2007 – 2009 I was a pastor at Resurrection Church and served on the Board of Directors at ICM.”
 During this time Martin met Kitty, who was also attending Saint Andrew’s, and after a whirl wind romance, they married in 2005. From the outset Kitty supported Martin in every way and has been truly a God given gift. “I never thought I would marry again after my divorce and then a further 14 years being single, but God had a different plan.”
It is not uncommon that people who serve selflessly experience burn-out. This happened with the former executive director of Inner City Ministries. He resigned in January 2009 and Martin stepped in to serve as executive director. However, because ICM was in financial crisis, Martin agreed to work his first year as executive director without pay.
“We had 1,074 Hong Kong dollars in our ICM account when I took over,” Martin said and laughed. I worked as a volunteer. It was either volunteer or shut down Inner City Ministries. I am fortunate that my wife has a very good heart and believes in my work. She supported me for that year. After a year the board stepped in and set up a salary for me.”
Martin says that his greatest challenge that first year was learning how to run a Non-Governmental Organization, an NGO.
“I was a teacher. This was a huge learning curve for me. Donors wanted to know where every dollar went. We had bills to pay and we had to raise money,” Martin explains. “I prayed a lot and I followed God’s voice. But there is one thing I learned that first year: God only turns up at 11:55 and he does so deliberately. He wants us to know it is his provision. Otherwise life is too easy.”
That first year proved to be successful for Martin and ICM. “We started with 1,074 Hong Kong dollars in the bank, and we ended with 174,000 HK,” Martin explains. “We became a company with charitable status. We got our accounts water tight. However, we did have some close calls. That August our rent went up and we acquired rats. We needed to move but we could not afford any rents. Then one day our staff member Caroline Simick popped into an agent’s office and found out about this space. It was renovated and the location was perfect, but the rent was too high. However, when she went to speak with the owner, it turned out she was a devout Christian, so she lowered the rent significantly to make it affordable for us. We have been to the wall financially many times, but we have come through. God does not want us to be too rich.”
Inner City Ministries is a trusted institution in the Jordan community. Often staff members are called upon to intervene with the police. The organization receives no government help because they don’t want the restrictions.
 “We’ve been able to survive and serve the community,” Martin says with a certain measure of pride. “This is a family. I’ve been accepted into this family and I am treated with a huge amount of respect, which I don’t deserve,” Martin quickly adds. “They treat me as a father figure. I don’t encourage the “Great White Father” syndrome. That’s something Britain used to expand its empire. I don’t want anyone to “Yes Sir” me because I am British. I am the caretaker here. I love to teach. I bring my experience as a teacher into ICM. My passion is to share the faith. I love to share what I’ve had the time to read. I’m proud of the staff. They are kind and compassionate and have mission hearts. The Nepalese people are deeply spiritual. Spirituality is integrated into their lives. They are disciplined and passionate Christians.”
On my next visit, I walk into ICM’s conference room for my meeting with Caroline Simick and find her engrossed in conversation with two young Nepalese women. They sit at the edge of the large conference table, heads together, speaking earnestly in soft voices. Caroline looks up and smiles warmly. She invites me to pray with them. We place our palms together and Caroline begins her prayer in Nepalese, interjecting English phrases between a stream of melodic Nepalese words. We pray for God’s protection for one woman’s seven-year-old daughter, left behind with family in Nepal, while she works in Hong Kong to earn money to send home. We pray for good health for the second woman, who is four months pregnant and deeply anxious.
When we finish praying, Caroline and the two women place their palms together and say: Djai masai
Djai masai is our blessing; masai is the Nepalese word for ‘Messiah,’” Caroline explains.
I repeat the blessing and they smile warmly at me.
“You are a quick learner,” Caroline says.
The two young women say good-bye and hurry off to their waitressing jobs. Caroline takes me on a tour of ICM’s cramped quarters. The organization makes use of every centimeter of its dearly bought office space. We walk out of the offices and through the afterschool tutoring room into a large bright sewing room. Women are huddled over sewing machines, sewing little girls’ dresses from bright cotton print fabrics.
“Martin’s sister has taught the women who have some extra time for it how to sew. The items that are sewn here in this room are shipped to impoverished communities in Africa, Nepal, and the Philippines. We do not only want to take. We want to give. These women here, who have nothing themselves, give, and that giving brings them pride and joy.”
Caroline opens up a cupboard and shows me stacks of colorful cotton quilts and bright dresses and pants sewn by the women. Djai masai, djai masai, the women greet me, palms together, pausing and looking up from their sewing.
Caroline leads me back into the conference room. We weave our way between small children, whose mothers have brought them to the center for tutoring with high school students from the American International School of Hong Kong.
“Would you like some chapa tea?” Caroline asks. “It is Darjeeling tea, from my home district. We prepare it with lots of milk and sugar.”
“Yes, thank you,” I say in anticipation of tasting this tea I had only tasted a few years ago when I’d visited India.
Caroline prepares the tea and sets down a cup in front of me and cup for herself. Now, she is ready to talk.
I take a sip. The tea is delicious, a blend of bitter and sweet, refreshing and reminiscent of a cleaner place, a place of mountains and fresh air.
“We pick the Darjeeling in our district in India,” Caroline explains.
“You are not from Nepal then?” I ask.
“I am from the Himalayan region of India, from Kalimpong, on the border of Nepal. We speak Nepalese and share our culture with Nepal; although, we are a hill station in the Indian state of West Bengal. Kalimpong is located at an elevation of 1,250 meters. It used to be a gateway for trade between Tibet and India. My mother is from the Lepcha tribe; they are an indigenous people of Darjeeling. My father is from China. He came over to India in the 1940s during the time of the Chinese Cultural Revolution. He escaped China through Tibet and made his way into India. My parents met in Calcutta. My grandmother was teaching at the Industrial College there and my mother would go with her to help. They would eat lunch at a Chinese restaurant and that is how my parents met. They had eight children together, but I never met my father. We had to hide our Chinese name and heritage from the Indian authorities. When I was a child, the Indians were rounding up Chinese and families of Chinese and sending them back to China.”
Caroline’s father died when she was two years old. They believe he may have died of lung cancer, but no one knows for sure. Her mother raised eight children on her own, hiding their Chinese identity. That was why her surname was a Lepcha tribal name, Simick.
Caroline first came to Hong Kong in 1990 to visit her brother, who was a Gurkha in the British Army. He traveled from India to Nepal and applied for a Nepali passport to be able to join the Gurkha. He came to work in Hong Kong in 1969. After the hand-over he and his family immigrated to Canada.
Caroline was raised a Christian because her father had practiced Christianity. In 1997 she studied at a Bible College in India. In 2000 she traveled to Hong Kong to visit a Korean friend. Some friends brought her to Inner City Ministries to visit. Immediately she found herself in a situation in which she was asked to interpret between English and Nepalese. The Ministry liked her so much, they offered her a job. She stayed in Hong Kong and has been working at the Ministry ever since. In the early years she worked as an interpreter, translating for the Nepalese community in the hospitals and in government offices. Over the years that work grew into the missionary work that she does now.
The turning point in her work came when she was asked to interpret for a family whose mother was going blind from a brain tumor. At the hospital the doctor explained that it was necessary to operate immediately. The family refused on the grounds that they had to first go back to Nepal to make an animal sacrifice to their local “witch doctor,” as Caroline calls the Nepalese tribal healers. The doctor told Caroline that although there was no guarantee that the complicated operation would save the woman, if she were to survive at all, the operation had to be done at once. Caroline spent hours with the family, and with the woman with the tumor, explaining to them the details of the operation and trying to convince them of the futility of risking their mother’s life with what she viewed as an unnecessary trip to Nepal at that crucial time. It took a lot of time and prayer, but eventually she was able to turn the family around and help them let go of their tribal beliefs and allow modern medicine to intervene. The woman’s life was saved and since that time the family has given its full support to Inner City Ministries and actively participates in the center’s many activities. It was this break-through, this realization of how lives can be saved when minds are opened up, that gave Caroline the vision to become a real leader of the Nepalese community in Hong Kong.
I asked Caroline what future she saw for the Nepalese community in Hong Kong.
“We can guide them,” Caroline said. “They work long hours. The men who were Gurkha have found work as security guards, but often they must work through the night. They don’t have time to study. The younger generation wants to study. The previous generation centered their lives around the army. We encourage the new generation to study. More NGOs are helping the Nepalese people. Things are getting better. It depends on the individual mind. They must do vocational training. Some are teachers and even in international schools.”
The Nepalese are used to living in tightknit communities, often by tribal affiliation. Public housing spread them out too much over the large expanses of Hong Kong. However, in recent years Nepalese have begun applying for public housing and moving into public housing. The apartments are “bigger and cheaper” Caroline tells me. But, she admits, the convenience breaks up the community.
            “The parents have long work hours,” Caroline answered. “Mothers do not have enough time for their children. They have little money and must work. They need a dual income because the rent is high in Hong Kong. Many families I know live five family members in 150 meters. They apply for public housing and don’t get it. The government rules make it hard. The wife may want to work but cannot or cannot show her salary because then they cannot apply for public housing. The mother must take care of the family. If the mother works at night the boys go out looking for trouble. Nighttime jobs pay cash. A husband working as a security guard may earn 13,000 Hong Kong dollars per month, but 4,000 of that must go to pay the rent. Three families rent one flat together for a total of 12,000 HK. Each family pays 4,000. Each room has a tiny kitchen and toilet installed. There is a bed and otherwise they sit on the floor.  I know one family with three sons and wife who all life together in one room.”
I asked Caroline what is the most prevalent problem in the Nepalese community.
            “It used to be the language,” she explains. “Nepalese rarely intermarry or integrate. They stick with their own kind. Therefore, there is little opportunity to learn Chinese. In the days of the Gurkha, the Nepalese had their own Nepalese language school on the military base—or they sent their children to study in Nepal. They did not need to learn Chinese. This was a problem after the handover and the schools in Hong Kong switched to instruction in Mandarin and Cantonese. Now children are attending local schools from the first grade and with the help of our tutors are learning Chinese. But by the upper grades they get stuck and they cannot go to university. Then the young people leave school and go to work making sandwiches at Subway, waitressing, or work construction.”
We chat a few moments about fate and about how fate has this way of bringing us exactly where we are needed most when we need to be there.  Caroline thinks a moment and then says: “In my life I have come full circle. I have come back to China, my father’s land.”
            The Chinese Cultural Revolution displaced many ethnic Chinese people, scattering them all over the world to new places where they had to adapt and build new lives. Alan Lo’s family story, like Caroline’s, is a story of displacement and of acquiring a special insight into others’ needs through the challenge of being placed in the outsider role.
          Alan begins our conversation by saying, “Although I am ethnic Chinese, I am an outsider here in Hong Kong. I think that is why I can connect with the Nepalese children. I have been in their position myself as a child.”
Alan Lo was born in Kuching, Malaysia, on the island of Borneo, in May 1968. Both sets of his grandparents escaped the Chinese Cultural Revolution. His mother’s family fled to Hong Kong and then to Borneo. Alan’s mother was born in Borneo on the Indonesian side in a small village. His mother held onto a strong old-fashioned Chinese ethnicity and became a Mandarin teacher. She was academically focused and trained as a journalist.
          His father came from a middle class family. He went to Australia to study on the Columbo plan scholarship. When he returned to Borneo, he married Alan’s mother in an arranged marriage.
When he was two, Alan’s family moved to Melbourne, Australia. The family moved around Australia, eventually ending up in Perth.
“My life was difficult growing up,” Alan explains. “I had lots of trauma as a kid. I connect with the Nepalese kids so passionately because I easily could have become a criminal on the streets.”
Alan feels that he was formed by Australia. He laughs as he tells a story about how his mother would try to teach him Chinese and he would jump out the window and run away.
“I was the eldest and I fought my mother’s authority. I wanted to be free. I was not your typical obedient Asian kid,” Alan says. “I embraced Australian culture. Australian culture celebrates the underdog status. It’s about you as a person. You try to live up to that without regret.”
            However, as much as Alan embraced Australia, Australia did not always embrace him.
“I did not speak English when I went to school,” Alan says. “I was the only Asian kid in school. I was bullied, picked on. I was in lots of fights. I had to defend myself and that hardened me. As a teenager I stopped fighting because everyone was so much bigger than me. Now I can empathize with the Nepalese kids as outsiders. I can understand being physically and culturally different from the majority group. I was an outsider by race, by family, and by personality. I was that problem kid.”
            I asked Alan what brought him to teaching.
“The birth of my sister,” Alan says. “Mom was 43 when my sister was born. I was 19. We all had to pitch in and help. I was studying Science in the university when my sister was born.  I often brought my sister to classes with me. I had a car seat for her in my car. As she grew, I taught her and helped her develop. I taught my sister the basics of mental concepts. The university helped me become a philosophical, intellectual person. I contemplated becoming a priest. The university opened up the idea that that there is more to life than just working and earning money. I do believe that learning should be fun. You need to make connections between content and context. Lesson planning is great, but you need to be ready to throw it away and follow the students’ interests. I treat my students with a certain level of intellectual respect. My lessons combine topics. Teaching involves connections, leading to interesting questions. I look for ways to connect with kids. I was so closely aligned with the kids I taught in Australia that everything else was not important. I was there for them on weekends.”
           Alan began his first teaching job at the age of 21. He accepted a position at a school in Newman, Australia, out in the middle of the outback, in the desert.
“It was my first time out of the city,” Alan says. I was the only Asian teacher. The only other Asians the local population had seen were laborers. Eventually, they saw that I was just a regular guy.”
After two years teaching in Newman, Alan returned to Perth because his mother needed his help at home. He taught in inner city schools in Perth for the next 17 years. Then five years ago his wife accepted a job in Hong Kong and the couple set off on an adventure.
 “I was feeling lost my first year in Hong Kong,” Alan explains. “In Hong Kong I became an outsider all over again. From the moment I passed through immigration everyone tried speaking with me in Chinese. I could not speak Chinese, although my wife could. People were rude. They were disgusted with me. I tried to establish a network of teachers, but there is no union here. I first taught at Singapore International School. I thought the system would be similar to the Australian one, but it wasn’t.  I went back 20 years in a time warp.  No kid ever asked a question. I had to break down barriers. In Hong Kong the kids are brainwashed not to think for themselves. They have been so obedient for so long that they are hesitant to take a risk. When you do something fun they see it as a risk. They are good at technical schools in Hong Kong, but critical thinking is missing.”
When Alan began teaching at the American International School in 2013 the high school principal, Mike Wing, was willing to give Alan a chance to start a high school tutoring project together with Inner City Ministries.
            “Other schools said it was too risky and that parents wouldn’t like it,” Alan explains, “but Mike was willing to give it a try. I had my first meeting and 25 kids came. I made the kids expect the worst, so that they would be flexible. We can’t protect our kids. We have to make them ready for anything. You have to be calm, patient, tolerant. I want to teach our students how to be leaders and role models for the children in the Nepalese community. After three months of work our students’ confidence has grown. They walk the streets of Jordan leading these small children by the hand and they can handle them. Our kids did not expect to feel this passion, but they do. Leadership is about growing, about taking responsibility. They think a leader gives orders. I teach them that a leader needs passion, a connection with people, persistence and perseverance. You see the affects of poor leadership on the Nepalese kids. They are left behind by society. The program helps both the kids in Jordan and our school’s kids. Hong Kong is grotesquely materialistic. If all you think about is the next pay check, car, house, you are not human. In Hong Kong you are either Hong Kong Chinese or you are not. Mainlanders are excluded. All immigrants are outsiders. The children suffer. What we are doing in Jordan is slowly breaking down these barriers.”
            Every Thursday Alan and I set out with our 25 teenagers to Jordan, where we pick up more or less 15 Nepalese children and weave our way through the traffic and chaos of the streets of Jordan to the YMCA classrooms in the Elements mall. Once we’ve herded our gaggle of boisterous children, ranging in ages from five to eight, into the classroom, our students immediately get them on task, some working with the children on Chinese lessons, some on English, some on math.
           Over the months I have been interviewing the high school students, encouraging them to reflect on their experience tutoring in Jordan. Among participating students, the following languages are spoken at home: English, Cantonese, Mandarin, Korean, Punjab, Tamil, Hindi, and a few Chinese provincial dialects. I learned that many of our student volunteers themselves feel like outsiders in Hong Kong, coming from families that have had to struggle to find their place in this concrete jungle. For this reason, they tell me, they are able to connect with the Nepalese children and they want to help them.
            I open my conversation by asking the students to tell me about themselves. I learn that many of them have already reflected quite a lot on the benefits of belonging to dual cultures. Daniel Fung, who is 18 and in the 12th grade, who has lived in Australia, Taiwan, and Hong Kong, and comes from a mixed Korean and Chinese background said: “My mom’s Korean; my dad’s Chinese. By nationality I am Australian. My Dad is a Cantonese speaker, but he learned Korean to speak with my mom. We lived in Taiwan for seven years and learned Mandarin. Then we lived seven years in Australia. We’re now living our third year in Hong Kong. Father is an engineer and works with marketing. My father likes to move us around. I like moving around because it is a good cultural experience. It helps me accept things. I adapt to different environments. I’ve been in very Chinese and very Western environments. Those ideas and worlds conflict, but being part of both helped me grow up. I have both Chinese influence in my thoughts and also Western. In Australia I learned to talk freely with my parents. The Chinese language is freer than Korean, where respect for the elders is built into the language. I live in a bilingual culture in Hong Kong—Western and Chinese at the same time. I am best adapted to a mixed culture.”
Chrissi Lai, who is sixteen and in the eleventh grade, a native Hong Kong Chinese who experienced being treated as an outsider when her family moved to Shanghai because of her father’s work, had the following observations about being an outsider inside her own culture:
In China the kids are really brainwashed by Chinese stereotypes. They did not like me because I was from Hong Kong. When I told them I was from Hong Kong they didn’t want to play with me. They tend to have different values. They think studying is just memorizing. The way I thought set me apart from them. They think Hong Kong people think they are better, so they dislike them. We don’t like them because they come to Hong Kong and they destroy our culture with their rude behavior. My experience helps me understand these children. They need help, so why not help them.”
           I ask the students why they chose to volunteer their time tutoring the children in Jordan instead of choosing to play a sport or join a club as their afterschool activity.
            Daniel answers: “At first I came here to have the experience. I did peer tutoring a few years ago and found that I like helping people. After I came a few times I realized I really like the small kids as people and I like to help them. I feel as though I am doing some good.”
   Chrissi Lai expressed the following: “I come here because I care. These children are so isolated in school and they are constantly being told they are stupid. It destroys their self-esteem. They need somebody to give them confidence and support.”
   Srijith Kannan, who is sixteen and in grade eleven, from Southern India, but who also has lived in Singapore, expressed the following: “In grade 9 I first went to Malaysia on our school’s Adventure Week. I was tutoring and I had a good time. I felt I was contributing. Same in India and New Zealand. But I didn’t have much opportunity to teach. I wanted to do something like this but did not have resources. Mr. Lo started the club and I immediately joined. I want to leave a footprint on the world.
   Martin and Caroline and Alan have educated me on the challenges the children from the Nepalese community face. Indeed, on any given Thursday watching them tear around the classroom and the high school students’ struggle to gently coax them into focusing on their work is evidence enough that this is not an easy group of kids to teach. I ask our student volunteers what challenges they have faced working with the children in Jordan.
     Srijith answered: “The first two classes I was talking to my boy about life and his feelings. He would not open up to me. I found it hard to do something about his emotional state. I went directly to math. I gave him a diagnostic test and I found out he can do no math. I’ve been teaching him addition. For the first few weeks I was really frustrated because I could not get him to focus. He would say 1 + 1=11. It took weeks for him to get it. I could see he did not get attention at school or at home. I tried to create a bond. Now he trusts me. I enjoy his company. He gives me a glimmer of hope that he can become something. He has resources. Even though he is an ethnic minority, he can achieve.
   “It is not enough to volunteer for just three hours on Flag Day. You must do something continuously. You can establish a relationship with someone you would never have the chance to otherwise have a relationship with. I helping them improve while improving myself. In Hong Kong the ethnic minorities are Nepali and Pakistani. They are from third world countries and they are not given much attention. They don’t have much quality of life because Hong Kong is expensive. Their education is in a local school, which is overcrowded.”
    Daniel answers: “Communication is my biggest problem. When you talk to them they don’t respond or they speak in Nepalese. I don’t know if they understand me or not. Behavior is also a challenge. I don’t feel that they were socialized by their parents. They don’t know basic discipline. If I tried to force my kid not to do something, he would cry and throw a fit.”
Ruby says, “I don’t know if they understand what I’m saying. They are very active and run around a lot. Their attention span is very short.”
I ask the students: “What have you learned from these children?”
Daniel says: “I’ve learned to be patient. I’ve learned to listen. At first I thought that my kid didn’t understand, but it turned out that he did. He did not want to work and tried to hide it. I learned to be patient and not give up. I can honestly say that this experience has taught me a lot of things. I’ve actually seen a lot of Nepalese children, but I’ve not known about their problems. These kids are not rich, but they are bright. There is one girl I walk back with who is really intelligent. To me teaching is something I enjoy.”
“I’ve learned responsibility and devotion,” Chrissie says. “Without responsibility you will just push what you have to do onto another individual. You must take responsibility for your own actions, for the person you are trying to help. Devotion is coming every week. It shows that you are willing to take responsibility.”
Carol Ho, a twelfth grader and native Hong Kong Chinese says, “It’s very hard to learn another language when it’s not a language you are used to. They all speak Nepalese with each other. They have to face Cantonese and English. When I speak Cantonese with them they have the same level as English, which is not much. There are words they know in Cantonese, but not in English and vice versa, so I used a mix of both to talk them. They may point to a picture and give me the Chinese word. Their mother tongue is definitely Nepalese. They speak fast and fluent.”
Ruby Young Kyoung Kim, an eleventh grader, a Korean living in Hong Kong said:  “At first I thought the kids would be gloomy and sad because Mr. Lo said they come from difficult lives. We have that stereotype about minority kids. We think they are poor and mean or bad. But, as I was communicating with Abigail and the other kids I found that they are nice kids. They aren’t as bad as I thought.”
            I ask: “How do you feel when you donate your time to tutor the kids in Jordan?”
“I don’t mind,” Daniel answers. “I have two younger brothers and I often tutor them. To me donating my time to help others means more than me using my time just to play video games to entertain myself. It is mutually beneficial: I get joy and I help them.”
            Chrissie says: “I have been teaching the same child the whole time. I help her with homework. I give her prizes to encourage her and I tell her she is smart. I build her confidence.
I feel happy. It feels good to make changes to their lives when they are so young and so helpless and need our help in school.”
     Mathew Christian Clark, who was born in Hong Kong to American parents and who is sixteen and in the eleventh grade said: “I taught them that learning can be fun. I say: Look at this cool thing you now know. I play with them and make learning come alive.”
    Ruby says: “If I was a student in Korea, I wouldn’t be having this experience. I would be too caught up in academics. Because I am in an international school in Hong Kong I am more open and free to experience. I wanted to do something and one thing I could do is teaching the children.”
    I ask a question designed to make the students reflect on the cornerstone of the program—leadership: Why do you think Mr. Lo calls this Club the Jordan Leadership Club and what does it take to be a leader?
“I think it’s because we develop our leadership skills,” Daniel answers. “Teaching these kids is not easy. It forces us to step up and take care of the situation. We learn to be independent. We have to take responsibility for the kid we are teaching. I think there are different aspects of being a leader: one on the surface and one behind. A leader is someone who tries to control the situation to allow events to happen properly. We might not all stand up and take credit, but we are all trying to stand up and take part.”
Ruby says: “Being a leader means to be beside the person and as they go along we encourage them. If they fall down, we encourage them to go on. It takes commitment and being helpful. You have to be strong yourself to make the other person strong.”
Srijith says: “Many people consider a leader as someone who gives speeches, but in reality leadership is not only about leading a crowd, but about changing a life. Leadership requires responsibility, patience, passion, drive. This club provides us the opportunity to develop all these skills.”
Finally, I ask: How can you be a role model to the children in the Nepalese community?
Daniel answers: “I don’t know if I am much of a role model. I try to behave. Some of them don’t know right from wrong. They think that doing anything they want is acceptable. It could be because they are children or maybe it is because their parents cannot be near them all the time because they are working. I can take on the role of a parent and teach morals and guide them. I’m not sure if I can help them progress academically in this short time, but I want to teach them morals.”
Carol adds: “First, you need to be a good person in front of them. Speak appropriately and politely. If I joke with Daniel I don’t let myself go. You can’t use offensive words. You must watch your own behavior.”
“I learned that teaching children isn’t easy,” Ruby says. “Although it is tiring, ironically I get more energy. I’m trying to provide these kids with a little fun and education at the same time. I want to help out with their work. I ask them to make up stories in English. I also think that I could show them how I don’t give up. When it’s hard I don’t give up. Even though they jump around I won’t give up catching them.”
“I don’t really consider myself as a role model,” Srijith says.  “I find it more important to help them become the future role models in their society.”
Daniel ends our discussion with the following thought: “I think this is a new thing. Our school hasn’t done anything like this before. We’ve never gone off campus to tutor. This club is helping our society and we are doing a lot. I prefer this club over tutoring at school. This club is an opportunity that you seek out yourself. I’d like to do something like this during my gap year. This club taught me that I can do something like reaching out to a community in need. This club was very surprising.”
The next week I speak with some of the mothers of the children in the tutoring program. I approach a group of women sitting together outside the classroom. One of the women is the mother of a five-year-old girl who enthusiastically attends the tutoring sessions every week. She speaks good English and so I ask her to translate for the others. What I learn is that out of the ten women sitting together, only two are actually mothers. The rest are helpers brought over from Nepal to care for the children while their mothers work in restaurants. They feel that they are not qualified to answer my questions, so I hold a discussion with the two mothers.
I learn that my translator is the daughter of a Gurkha and grew up in Hong Kong. Her husband works as a security guard and she is a housewife. She is fluent in both Cantonese and English.
“My child is happy to come here,” my translator tells me. “She is five. Her name is Presheana. She goes to Chinese school and learns everything in the Chinese language. I speak with her only in English. I feel English is important. She speaks Nepalese with her grandparents and her father. Her strongest language is English. I will talk in Chinese if she does not understand. She only knows a little Chinese. My husband is a security guard and I am a house wife.”
“What do you think of our students?” I ask.
She responds enthusiastically with one word: “Helpful.” She explains, “We are learning together with our children. We sit in and ask the students for help.”
I learn from the other mother present that during the week the children remember the high school students and mention them. They are eager to come to tutoring in the YMCA. Their children’s favorite activity now is reading and drawing. This mother tells me that her son’s math skills have improved drastically. We make the connection, Srijith, the Indian boy who focused on math, is her son’s tutor.
My translator tells me that last week after she came home from tutoring her daughter was trying to make a paper airplane. I think back and I remember that day. Mathew started making paper airplanes out of scrap paper and soon paper airplanes were whizzing back and forth across the classroom to the delight of the children.
“My daughter was very shy,” my translator says, “but after she started coming here she stopped being shy. She became more comfortable with the students. Before she did not want to say anything; now she always runs to the YMCA.” 
The second mother gentle rocks a baby carriage. A chubby faced baby is sound asleep in the carriage, wrapped in blankets, his face like a slumbering Buddha’s. Suddenly, the room erupts in peels of laughter and happy chatter as the children come racing out of the classroom. We all wish each other a good evening and go home, content with our day’s work, energized by the vision of three people who brought 25 teens and 15 children together in learning and leadership. 
               American International School students with the Nepalese children from the Jordan community.
                                          Alan Lo helps the children line up to go home.
        The women's sewing project at Inner City Ministries. The items the women sew are donated to       impoverished regions of the world. These women believe they should not just take, but give back as well.
                  The teen tutors and the children work together at the YMCA.







Akashdeep: Portrait of a Future Leader



A gaggle of teenagers in school uniform wait at the Kowloon Tong bus stop just opposite the tall red brick walls of our school. In the middle of them stands Akashdeep. A scar runs across the side of his head and when he walks he limps, dragging his one leg that is longer behind him. Several Indian boys circle around him, bantering back and forth in Punjabi. When one of the Chinese or Korean boys or girls edge their way into the group, they switch to English in an accent that fluctuates between a clean British pronunciation to the American accents they pick up from their North American teachers to the Indian-accented English they use at home alongside their respective native Indian languages. They are all clearly happy kids, self-confident, positive, determined. They all like to laugh and will laugh at the slightest provocation.
           “Hello Miss!” they call out cheerfully as I approach, hurrying to get to the bus stop before the number 77 to Jordan arrives.
            It amuses me that our students at the American International School of Hong Kong address all their female teachers as “Miss” regardless of age. Sometimes that “Miss” is transformed into an affectionate “Missy.” Our surnames are used only when we are formally addressed.
            The double decker city bus arrives and we all clamber inside as the impatient bus driver, steeped in the frenzied tempos so typical of Hong Kong, jerks the bus forward into the constant river of traffic on Waterloo Road. My colleague, Alan Lo, jumps inside the bus along with the last few stragglers just as the bus speeds away from the curb. The kids, with that specific enthusiasm of youth, which keeps us two teachers in our forties young, but rushing to keep up, scurry up the stairs to the upstairs seating area. Akashdeep takes the stairs along with them, not letting his lame leg get in the way.
            “Alright, you all know where to get off right?” Alan calls out in his Australian accent.
            “Yes we do, Mr. Lo,” the kids call back, settling into the seats in the front that provide a bird’s eye view of the crowded streets of Kowloon. The bus weaves aggressively in and out of traffic, reminiscent of the Knight Bus scene in the Harry Potter film.
            We exit the bus fifteen minutes later in the neighborhood of Jordan. This is an area of Hong Kong populated with the groups that in this multicultural city are labeled as “ethnic minorities,” the Nepalese, Indonesians, Indians and Africans. This is where Inner City Ministries is located, the Christian organization that provides tutoring, prayer meetings, and a variety of classes, including sewing and Nepalese cooking, to the local underprivileged communities of Jordan.
           Alan Lo hits the street running and takes off like a bullet, weaving his way around pedestrians on the crowded streets, the rest of us breaking into a run just to keep up.
            We stop short at a 7-11.
       “Alright,” Alan says in that peculiar way that only an Australian can pronounce the word, “Get yourselves a snack, quickly mind, and then we’ll pick up our children.”
           The kids rush inside the 7-11 as Alan and I wait for them on the street. They reemerge just as quickly with bowls of curry noodles. They hurriedly spoon the noodles into their mouths with plastic take-away chopsticks as we continue our fast-pasted walks toward the Inner City Ministries building a few blocks away.
        We duck inside a building surrounded by Chinese herbal medicine shops, street vendors, used clothing shops, and Nepalese restaurants. This is a typical Kowloon street, vibrant with the lives of many different cultures living side by side. One feels the poverty and the prosperity, just by glancing around. A few handicapped people have parked themselves on the sidewalks to beg. Street vendors hawk their goods, though not at us when they see us surrounded by teenagers in uniform, not a very lucrative prospect. All around construction is underway full force and over the blare of street traffic the hum of cranes and excavators is constantly in the air. A few blocks away is the Elements Shopping Mall, where we tutor the Nepalese children in a classroom provided by the YMCA. The Elements Shopping Mall, and the luxury apartment complexes built on top of it, like the Harborview Club, are futuristic luxury indoor spaces that extend over more than a kilometer. Inside the Elements one can find a full-size ice-skating ring, swimming pools, the best cinema in Hong Kong, scores of designer shops, and fine dining representing almost every major food culture on the face of the planet. One can live inside the Elements and never step outdoors and have all of one’s needs met. Of course, providing one has the money. And this is the where the contrast lies. The children we tutor are among the poorest in Hong Kong. They are the descendants of the Gurkha warriors, who served in the British Army while Hong Kong was a colony of the United Kingdom, and which were left behind to fend for themselves after the hand-over in 1997.
            Each of our students takes a child by the hand and we descend back into the busy streets of Jordan and head for the YMCA classroom in the Elements. At the YMCA each high school student settles in with his or her charge at a table. They pull Chinese language workbooks or English language workbooks out of the children’s backpacks and begin tutoring them. I settle into the back of the room with my laptop, pulling each of our students aside, one by one, to answer my interview questions, designed to get them to reflect on their experiences tutoring the Nepalese children. Today I am going to talk with Akashdeep, who is sixteen and who is in the eleventh grade.
            Our school is an international school and therefore many of our students have come to Hong Kong from a variety of countries. However, our school’s definition of an international student does not stop there. Many of our students are born in Hong Kong, but belong to cultures that have their roots elsewhere, most predominantly India, Pakistan, Indonesia, and Singapore. Akashdeep’s family are Sikh Indians. His father came to Hong Kong at the age of nine in the sixties.
            “I am so proud of my father,” Akashdeep says. “He has had such a difficult life. His family came to Hong Kong with nothing. They lived crowded in one room. He had to learn English and Cantonese. Now he is a successful restaurant owner and we live in a luxury apartment in Tsim Sha Tsui. I think that what I cherish and live for is what my dad has provided me with. I live in the heart and center of Hong Kong.  I enjoy all the privileges money has to offer. My dad came to Hong Kong with only $20 in his pocket. He learned Cantonese himself and he learned business. These kids here don’t have the advantages that I’ve had in life. They are like my dad. I want to help give them the base they need to be successful in life as well. I’m lucky to study at an amazing school. I have so many opportunities. These kids do not have these opportunities. I want these kids to experience what I experience every day.”
            “How is your life in Hong Kong different than if you lived in India?” I asked.
            “Our family visits India about four times a year,” Akashdeep said. “But, and I know that many of my Indian friends would be upset with me for saying this, in India there is no freedom of speech. India is conservative while Hong Kong is open to choice and opinion.”
          I realize in this moment that our teenage tutors, on the street level, have more insights into the psychology of these Nepalese children than us teachers, trained in pedagogy and psychology. They are an invaluable asset to these children precisely because they can give so much and do it naturally, intuitively.
             I asked Akashdeep, “What have you learned from these children?”
            A look of delighted surprise comes over Akashdeep’s face.
“Actually, I have learned a lot. Although I come here to teach, I’m the one who has learned a lot. Even though they do not have money, they have smiles on their faces. They cherish their families, their every moment. They taught me to live in the present. We have so much stress in our school lives, tests, striving for accomplishments, and so on. They are free.”
   “Were you surprised that you could learn from these children?”
   “Yes, very much. When Mr. Lo asked me to teach I thought I’d meet horrible kids who are spoiled and have no respect for elders. But I was surprised to find beautiful children. Occasionally, they use bad words, but that is it.”
   “How have you contributed to these children’s lives?”
   “I haven’t done much. I’m not living with them 24 hours a day. At least for one hour when they are with me they are smiling and they forget their stress. They look up to me and they think they want to be like me.”
   “How do you feel when you donate your time to tutor the kids in Jordan?”
    “I don’t see it as a donation,” Akashdeep corrected me.  “I see it as a learning experience for myself. I want to make a change in someone else’s life. I don’t want the credit, but I want them to say, ‘Someone taught me a better way to live.’ I don’t want them to end up on the streets. They come from the families of ethnic minorities. Their parents don’t have much to offer them. If I can give them something useful, then I am happy to do so. Their parents work at low paid jobs, like construction or security. If I give them one hour of help, I feel as though I’ve done something for them.”
  “Why do you think Mr. Lo calls this Club the Jordan Leadership Club?”
   “Because we are mentors to these kids. We are the ones they will look up. If we screw around, then they will learn from us to screw around. I want to be a leader. In our school the grade twelves are our mentors. We look up to them. These little kids will follow our footsteps one day.”
   “Akashdeep, What does it mean to be a leader?” I asked.
   “Being a leader does not mean bossing people around. It means having someone look up to you. I have a really good mentor. I follow his talks. His name is Mr. Barack Obama. I want to be like him. Even the way he drinks his water… I want to be like him. I cannot be Barack Obama, but I want to be like him.”
  “But what does it take to be a leader?” I ask, knowing that this is one of Alan Lo’s educational goals. He believes it is not enough to produce a student that is proficient at achieving high grades as is the typical expectation in Asian culture, but that we as teachers are called upon to build character. Alan likes to say,       “These kids are our future leaders.”
   “It takes concentration and patience to be a leader,” Akashdeep says. “These kids are difficult to work with. My theory is that they are not comfortable with us. They have devastating stories. Some are abused. Some lack attention. They are alone in their world. I want to get through to them. That’s what a leader does. A leader communicates.”
   “How can you be a role model to the children in the Nepalese community?”
   “I’m organized. I’m very professional at what I do. I am training myself to be a leader.  Although they cannot go to private schools, I want them to look up to me so that tomorrow they can do the same for someone somewhere outside. I want them to think, ‘This person taught me how to be organized.’ Test scores just show me what I need to learn more of. A bad grade means I have not learned and must work harder. I believe that I write my own destiny. I write my own destiny every day. I don’t believe in horoscopes. Indian people put a lot of faith in horoscopes. My parents drag me to have my horoscope done, but I don’t want to know. I want to forge my own future.”

          A few weeks later Akashdeep invites me and Alan Lo to dine at his family’s restaurant. Alan has other plans and cannot make it, but I agree to go. I feel that it would be wrong to turn down the invitation. After we are finished tutoring at the YMCA Akashdeep and I board a mini bus to Tsim Sha Tsui, or TST, as Hong Kongers call it, and Akashdeep tells me his story.
          “My mother has told me the story of how I was born. I was born full term, but I was not breathing. I was a still birth. But medicine is very good here in Hong Kong and the doctors revived me. I had a large lump on my lower back, so immediately they operated to remove it, but during the operation they damaged my ligament and that is why I now have one leg that is longer than the other. If that was not enough, they discovered that half of my heart was missing. The doctors did not have the technology in Hong Kong to correct that and asked my parents if they would agree to have the operation done in Australia. My parents, of course, agreed and I was flown on a chartered plane to Australia where I had open-heart surgery. This was followed by a few more surgeries spread out over the next few years because it is dangerous to put an infant under anesthesia for too long. I also had to have a cancerous lump removed from my brain and that is why I wear this long scar across my head. It is a miracle that I am alive.”
            “Your poor mother,” I said.
            “Yes, but we Indian people stick together. We do not leave a family member alone in times of crisis. My mother had strong support and prayers from our family and community. We are a joined family, my uncle’s family and ours. We live together under one roof. I have an older brother and three older sisters, however, some of them are really my cousins, but we grew up like brothers and sisters and we see no difference among us. Our grandmother also lives with us. She taught us to speak Punjabi when we were little and she taught us about Sikh culture.”
           We arrive in TST and step out of the bus into streets so crowded that we can only negotiate them by pressing our way past the throng of bodies. We walk to Chungking Mansions on Nathan Road, the main thoroughfare that runs the length of Kowloon, connecting the various neighborhoods. Chungking Mansions is supposedly a residential building, but it is made up of many low-budget hotels and shops and restaurants. Local Hong Kong people say that Chungking Mansions are like what the former Kowloon Walled City used to be. Inside the building there are curry restaurants, African bistros, clothing shops, sari stores and foreign exchange booths. Chungking Mansions serves as a gathering place for many of the ethnic minorities in Hong Kong, particularly Indians, Nepalese, Pakistanis, Bangladeshis and Sri Lankans, Middle Eastern people, and Nigerians. It is known as the unofficial African quarter of Hong Kong. We weave through booths selling cell phones, electronic goods, scarves and saris and arrive at the elevator, which takes us up to the Delhi Club, Akashdeep’s family restaurant, tucked far in the back of the building, a quiet oasis in this maze of noise, chatter in a plethora of tongues, frenetic bartering down at the stalls.
I recognize the Delhi Club as one of our stopping points on a scavenger hunt through Kowloon organized for new teachers by one of the school’s veteran teachers, Andrew Chiu, a native Hong Konger and expert on every nook and cranny of the city. On that day teams of new teachers raced around Kowloon in 90 percent humidity and intense heat, dripping in sweat, clutching clipboards with clues and riddles, racing against each other to reach the scavenger hunt’s final destination, the Dragon Mall in Sham Shui Po, deep in the concrete jungle that is Hong Kong.
          We enter the restaurant and Akashdeep’s father and uncle greet us. Akashdeep’s father, tall, gray-haired, fair skinned, dressed in a gray dress shirt and slacks, impresses me as an intelligent and self-confident man, but also a man who carries with him the spiritual humility of one who has practiced and followed his faith his entire life. He is a self-made man with the wisdom and experience of hard work and perseverance.
       Along the way to the restaurant Akashdeep had been telling me about his dream of studying in Switzerland. When I ask his father about this, he smiles and says, “Yes, Akashdeep may have this dream, but we cannot let him venture far into the world alone. You see, his health concerns keep him tied to Hong Kong. Every week of his life he has hospital visits.”
We discuss the various opportunities the Hong Kong universities have to offer Akashdeep and admissions strategies. As more customers file into the restaurant, Akashdeep’s father excuses himself and says, “Order whatever you like. You are our guest. Dinner is on the house.”
          I try to protest, but to no avail. I am a guest, a respected teacher in a culture where education is highly valued and seen as a means of advancement into a better life. And this has been a major difference in my experience thus far in Hong Kong. My word as the English teacher is respected. I am held in high esteem, both by students and their parents. Discipline issues are rare and mainly consist of Korean boys skipping English class to hide in the Boy’s bathroom to cram for a calculus exam.
            Although Sikhs are vegetarians, the menu contains many meat dishes. I pick out a Seekh kabeb, but Akashdeep insists that I have curry too, and a rice biryani, and garlic naan, and a mango lassi, so much food, too much food. But I eat it all and it is delicious. I am sent home with what I could not eat packed into a styrofoam box.
         “Indians take meals very seriously,” Akashdeep tells me. “To miss a family meal is to show great disrespect.” We share a laugh over the Indian dinner scene that I developed with a group of Indian students for our drama production, Friday Night Live in Hong Kong.
            “We also take prayer seriously. Every evening we pray together in front of a shrine in our apartment, the entire family.”
            I ask what the shrine looks like and Akashdeep explains that the shrine consists of photographs of Sikh temples and a sword.”
        “Each Sikh must carry a sword with him at all times,” Akashdeep explains, clearly proud of the tradition.
            “But how do you board a flight?” I ask, half joking, thinking of the thorough security checks in Hong Kong.
          “Well, these days our swords are the size of nail files,” Akashdeep explains, “and we have a certificate allowing us to carry them.”
           Akashdeep explains that the other identifying factor for a Sikh man, besides the obvious turban and long hair and beard, is a solid silver bracelet worn on the right arm. Indeed, as I am eating (Akashdeep refuses to eat with me, telling me it is against restaurant policy and that he eats his fill of curry at home every night anyway) the waiter sets down yet another dish and I notice a thick silver bracelet on his arm.
            “Only Sikhs work here?” I ask.
           “That is correct,” Akashdeep says. “They can eat as much as they like and they can take whatever they need home with them. It is a Sikh tradition to share food. In our temples we always provide food to everyone. You should see our local temple in Hong Kong; after services it is filled with all sorts of people who come to eat for free. You will even see plenty of American and European tourists eating at our tables.”
          Akashdeep and his father and uncle, and indeed the waiters in the restaurant, do not wear turbans or long hair. This detail is a matter of choice, but the miniature sword and the bracelet are not. They are important identifying features. I thank the family for their hospitality and go home that evening thinking about the many ways in which the West has got things wrong. As my own sons were finishing high school, I felt that it was important for them to break free and live and study on their own, even in places as far away from home as California. This type of independence and self-sufficiency is an important rite of passage in the West. And yet, Akashdeep’s family and the families of my other students, have shown me that independence and personal growth can be achieved within the structure of an extended family that lives and works together. Akashdeep’s sisters, already in their mid-twenties, university educated professionals, still live at home. In Hong Kong Chinese culture men and women lived at home until they are married. Granted, partly these living arrangements are a result of the exceptionally high cost of rent and real estate in Hong Kong, but partly they are more psychologically comfortable. Eastern cultures, for the most part, show that living together in supportive extended family units can be psychologically comforting as well as economically beneficial. Perhaps we in the West do let our chicks out of the nest too soon?
           
                                        Akashdeep standing beside the YMCA in Jordan.
                                     Student volunteers tutoring the Nepalese children.